Right now, I am in the packing process. I am a chronic overpacker, but, for me, it's all about having it and not needing it as opposed to needing it and not having it. We have used many of the extras we brought over the years, especially the medical kit, fully stocked with things including Benadry, bandaids, sunburn gel and aloe vera. The one med I don't bring is vanilla. Yes, vanilla as a medicine. It is amazing for burns, but, I know I'm going to buy it there anyway so I don't bother packing it. I also bring some essential oils, like lavender to mix with the aloe vera gel also for burns.
I found that on Frontier, if you elect to purchase their advance upgrade it ends up being cheaper than if you buy your luggage separately on the day of. So, for less than the price of just our checked bags and our seats (because you have to buy your seats as well), using the upgrade bundle we get our upgraded seats, our checked bags, and our carryon bags (they charge for carryons, too). It just made so much more sense when I broke it down.
Our transport from the airport with USA Transfers is all booked and paid for in advance so we don't have to worry about that. We also pre purchased Pesos so we get the best exchange rate. I printed up thank you notes (In Spanish) for the housekeeping staff to paperclip to the tips we leave them. I always worry they won't be sure it's meant for them, so, this will remove any doubt.
We've let Lele know we're arriving on the 5th, so, he knows what day to hide out. jk
So, Ready or not, here we come precious little Akumal.
We arrived in Cancun at just after 3pm, which was one of the many frustrations from our travel day. We had been due to arrive at 1:30 but our flight from Denver was delayed because of aircraft issues and having to deplane and then reboard a different aircraft. Many other frustrations combined to make it difficult to just relax and enjoy being on vacation, but, once we stepped off that plane and starting walking up the jet way the humid air started to remind us that we had truly arrived and could put all that had happened behind us.
USA transfers was waiting for us, so we were quickly on our way from the airport to Akumal Bay Beach and Wellness Resort for ten days of sun, sand, and glorious Mexican Riviera Mayan joy.
As soon as we pulled up to the gate we were already starting to relax.
This little girl was ready to welcome us, but her boyfriend was a little bit camera shy.
We were quickly met by Lele our dear friend, and then saw a few other friends, shared hugs and kisses, all while the very patient young lady at the front desk was working to get us checked in. It was wonderfully welcoming. Before we knew it we were headed off to our Penthouse suite, thank you Lele for the upgrade, and chatted with our young concierge Juan Pablo (JP) as we walked. He admitted he didn't really know what to show us or tell us about as we clearly were not new to the resort, so, we just got to know him.
The view, the sound of the ocean, very quiet during the day and evenings compared to building 2. We are loving it. The seaweed is here, but, not bad at all. I can remember in 2015 you could barely be on the beach in front of buildings 3 and 4 because that was where the mountain of seaweed was piled while they worked to move it off the beach, and the smell of rotting fish filled the air. This year, with all the storms, it's surprisingly clear.
Our room was decorated for romance, and that was the theme of this trip as it was our anniversary of the day we renewed our vows on the beach in Akumal six years ago, and a belated anniversary for 34 years of marriage.
The night brought a spectacular moon on sparkling water. It was so amazing, and the perfect end to a long day. We just unwound and breathed out for the rest of the evening.
Breakfast the next day was perfect. I had missed the fried plantains and pastries.
We re-aquainted with so many more old friends, Luis, Carlos, Jose, Wilberth, Cyntia, just so many. Of all the places we have traveled, the staff at ABBWR are hands down the finest people you will ever meet.
And who can beat that view for breakfast?
We set up for the day under a palapa in front of our building (#3), and based on our past experiences with these bamboo structures, we remembered to bring bungee cords with us to attach sarongs under the roof. Without them the sun gets through and makes it so uncomfortable, but, adding them is just the right amount of shade without cutting the breeze.
Lunch was fresh seafood, lots of guacamole and salsa.
Well, I fail miserably on the daily update, but, I am succeeding at not stressing about it.
Anywho,we are lovin it here. So many friends. Finally got to meet Marianne and Alejandro's precious baby girl. She's gorgeous, and very happy. Just like her mama and papa. Hoping to spend a little more time with them. Chocolate Alex and Karla both are rocking braces just like me, so, we're a trio. No dancing for Alex right now, he had surgery on his feet, but, otherwise he's doing great. My two favorite waiters, Lemuel and Jesus are both still here, but, I haven't seen Wilberth from the buffet yet. He might be at an ala carte, will have to check on that.
The weather has been, well, fun. Most days the sun is shining all day, very hot, sometimes a bit too still, but, now we are in a more normal pattern for this time of year, with the down pours rolling in by afternoon. The water has been very calm, some days with very little for waves at all, so the snorkeling is amazing. On that note, the commercial snorkel tours were suspended for the month of September. The bay feels a bit more like it's old self. On the other hand, there are roped off areas marked with bouys where no swimming (or snorkeling) is allowed. They are trying to get the sea grass to really come back strong and to give the sea life a break. Fins are not allowed at all in the north end of the bay, they might let short fins in, but, possibly not. Longer fins are permitted south of the buoyed areas, but, it's not widely promoted. In fact, in the room there is information about swimming and snorkeling, and it says no fins allowed anywhere in the bay, but, we got the clarification from Choco Alex and the ABR lifeguard. Most guests don't ask, and are disappointed they can't use their fins to go further out into the bay. We snorkeled yesterday more than half way out and then out to the reef, and only saw one or two other people the entire time we were out.
The beach is the same, except for the multitude of turtle nests. It's amazing seeing so many, and the resort is being very accommodating by keeping beach chairs and loungers picked up at night and moving the palapas to keep them off the nests. That said, beach volleyball is no more. Tim was pretty bummed. It's apparently not due to the turtle nests, even though the nests are in the old vball area. From what we have been told, people (guests) complained that it made the resort feel much less than a 5 star location. I am hoping if enough people ask it may come back. We were thinking of bringing our older kids next year, and they have specifically said how they look forward to playing vball with people from around the world.
The turnstyles are still at the CEA entrance to the beach, and it just feels so trashy where it was once a quaint little shop area. You can access the beach using the "public" access alongside Lol Ha, and it is posted as a public beach entrance.
We're in building 3 penthouse level, which I highly recommend. Its close enough to everything to not feel like a hike to get anywhere, but, far enough from the main pool to be quiet during the day, and if we don't want to listen to the nightly entertainment we can get away. The resort added many more palapas, I haven't seen any palapa wars so, I think they have enough to go around. There are also many more chairs around the main pool.
The make up of guests is mostly Germans and Brits, quite a few Canucks, and a small number of Yanks. Very few other nationalities. We have met some French people and some from Luxembourg. Apparently the Italians basically only come in the summertime, especially in August. We just missed them. The Germans don't really do much. Just sit around and chit chat. The Brits and Canadians are a ton of fun. I wonder if people who haven't been here before are thinking the resort is boring. I could be completely wrong as we don't spend much time around the main pool, so, maybe they do more when we aren't around.
We've basically stayed close to the resort so far, but, tomorrow we're hitting Yal Ku lagoon and then on Monday (our anniversary) we're going to the Xel Ha ruins. That is, after we have our picture taken by the very good photographer salesman that works for the resort.
Being September, the mosquitoes are out in force, so, Im glad I brought my Sawyers spray. It's the only stuff I find that really, really works.
We've eaten in two ala cartes so far, the Asian Fusion and the "steakhouse". The food is always so good, but, Id like to see more variety, especially at a restaurant that claims to be a steakhouse. Tim tried to order just a plan ole steak at the steakhouse, but they only had either the passed skewers or a lamb burger. No entrée steaks And the salad bar (while missing the bat from last time, there's a story that goes with that) was not very big. The Asian fusion was so far our favorite.
Right now we are watching the rain pass as our lunch settles, and then, on to the gym.
We went snorkeling at Yal Ku Lagoon. It was fine, I guess, nothing to write home about. Feels a little sketch, especially when no one else was around. We weren't really sure we had walked the right way. Once you emerge from the jungle you walk through to get to the lagoon, there is just a rickety foot bridge to cross what appears to be more of a swamp than a lagoon. That takes you to a little area with a few wooden benches, no shade, and no one to tell you to be careful that the stairs are covered in moss and very slippery as you walk down into the water. Other than that, it turned out to be not too bad. The water was nice and cool, which was a break from the oppressive heat. There wasn't a ton of fish to see especially due to the murkiness of the water, probably because the sea was churning on the outside of the lagoon where it meets the fresh water coming out and the sea water coming in. Still, we did the circuit, saw what we could, and then headed back into town.
The fresh flowers everywhere just adds that special touch.
Today's towel art was what appeared to be a lizard, or maybe a sea monster, or an iguana. Ah, who cares, he's adorable.
Beach bar service is so nice.
At night the turn down service includes chocolates, and good night card and usually chocolate covered strawberries, macaroons, and other chocolates. Plus, roses, what a nice touch.
Wifi is free and accessible all over the resort. We often would sit in the evenings in the main lobby, have a drink, and check on things at home. Tim is taking a masters program course so he was getting caught up on homework.
Breakfast again was a great start to the day. Loved the watermelon juice.
This time we opted for a Bali bed instead of a shade structure. They are so comfortable, and private. Not on the beach but pretty darn close to it.
Towel art, I think it might be an ardvaark, or an armadillo.
Turn down service made us a heart out of rose petals.
Another glorious day in paradise. We've spent a majority of our time either napping in the Bali bed or snorkeling. Some time under palapas, but, this trip has had so much more heat than we have experienced in the past, and days with no breeze, so, being on the beach was just not as nice as being in amongst the coconut trees.
More homework......
Um, a bear maybe.
The stand up paddle boards were out quite a bit. People really seem to like them. Due to a knee injury, I would have to forego that activity.
No shortage of little tree lizards.
Another yummy treat from turn down service.
The next day we had a torrential rain storm, so, we just hung out in the lobby areas. It's always nice to have a day when any sun burns can get a chance to heal a bit.
We decided to try the Rodizio grill for dinner. Some nights it was just too still to eat in there as they have no AC. This night was pleasant with the after storm breeze.
The salad bar had some nice offerings, albiet limited. Then came the meat skewers, which were great. Tim was disappointed that they couldn't make him just a steak. Last time we ate there he had the best steak he has ever tasted, but, the manager said they have just one a la carte item a night and it changes every night. Tonight was lamb burger. He passed on that.
At night the pool is lit up, and looks amazing.
Another day in the Bali Beds. And this is proof there really are monsters lurking under beds.
I'm going with turtle on this one.
If you look closely you can see the barracuda.
This sand ray was resting pretty close to shore, hence, when you enter the bay you do the stingray shuffle. No one wants to get stepped on, and I know no one wants to get stung.
In the evenings the rays come right up to shore and will kind of follow you as you walk.
Another yymmy treat. Tonight was Saturday and that means chocolate tasting in the main bar. The turn down service got us started. Those are chocolate lips, and they were so good.
The chocolate tasting display. Does it get any better, I think not.
Spent time chatting with Alex and Karla. Just love those two so much.
Bunny Rabbit????
We decided we would take a stroll to the cannons since we hadn't done that yet this trip. It was almost sunset, and the beach in front of Lol Ha restaurant was crammed with people. Glad we aren't staying at that end of the beach. The boom boxes were competing loudly, and could be heard all the way to the point. Still, it was a gorgeous sunset and a storm was getting ready to move in.
Dinner was in the Asian Fusion restaurant, my favorite. We were a little early, so, we just chilled in the lobby for a while.
Then hurricane Irma sent us a reminder that the Yucatan had dodged a bullet once again.
The next day we spent a few hours at the Xel Ha ruins. They are right across the road from the Xel Ha eco tourist theme park, but, we weren't really interested in doing the whole theme park thing. We prefer to learn about the history of the Mayan people and the Book of Mormon historical locations and parallels, so, we got a taxi from the resort to the gate of the ruins. We paid the I think 12 dollar entry fee, and then had the entire place to ourselves. It was quiet, and serene, and humid beyond belief. The mosquitoes were terrible, but, we had the very effective Sawyers spray on, and it kept them at bay for the most part. We didn't really get bitten much, but, they kept buzzing us. We stayed as long as we could, and were able to actually climb on the structures, get up close and personal with the way people lived and what it might have felt like to try to survive in that jungle.
This doorway was shaped like an arrow. I'll have to do some research to find out why.
Inside the ruins were painted murals. We only saw a couple of them before the mosquitoes finally had their way and ran us out.
When we got back to the resort we were again greeted by one of the resident iguanas. She was very pretty.
I just love these tree lizards. They pretend they are a leaf, and bob up and down to fool predators. Very cute.
Centipede?
Another cool storm blowing in.
Elephant
Our last turn down service for the trip. They put rose petals on the pillow tops, just adorable.
While we were there we had a photo shoot to commemorate our anniversary. The resort photographer, Nilo, did such an amazing job.
This was a perfect trip, even with the heat, and we will be back.
Prologue:
Been back for almost a week now, and still trying to get back into real life. The trip was both great and kind of so-so. We had interesting weather. Towards the last half the heat was close to unbearable. It was so still, and so hot that we even fled our bali bed for the air conditioning in our room on a couple of afternoons. Normally I wouldn't even consider leaving the beach, but, it was really bad. Going inland was complicated by the stillness bringing the mossies out in large numbers all day long. I went thru an entire bottle of Sawyers spray. So glad I brought it.
Turned out Water Baby was our next door neighbor. That was pretty cool, but, we only saw them once as we were leaving the room and they were coming back. Chatted for a bit about the snorkel tours and some violators that Water Baby saw coming into the bay in boats. Oh, if I were queen of the world, I'd clean some clocks in a hurry.
Monday morning we had our photo shoot with the resort photographer, Nilo. He was so much fun, and does a great job of making these two old folks look pretty good. He took almost 100 pictures, and we ended up with 33 to pick from. We bought 15 pictures, plus a dvd, $300 US. I think it was on the pricey side, but, it was our anniversary, so we splurged.
Then Monday around noon we went to the Xel Ha ruins site. We were the only people there, other than the caretaker at the front entrance. We explored, climbed the ruins, and were surprised at the amazingly good condition of the murals. But, again, the mossies were really bad, and even with repellent they were getting us, so, we cut our time short and didn't get all the way back in the jungle where the Jaquar site has a truly incredible mural that we plan to go back to see someday.
Did a little souvenir shopping on Tuesday to bring each of the kids something, but, this trip we really didn't buy very much for ourselves. Well, other than the pictures we had taken.
The resort seems to be taking on a cruise ship mentality, where most guests sit around and do nothing but eat, drink, and talk. That's fine, I have no beef with how someone spends their vacation, I just miss the balance of activity, too. Chocolate Alex is so frustrated in trying to find music that makes everyone happy, and even when he books in an amazing band, no one gets up and dances. He's even had people complain that there is too much Latin music. Okay, I get it. Not everyone can Salsa dance. But, it's Mexico. What kind of music did you expect to hear? And when he tried to balance the music with more rock, or oldies, more complaints that there wasn't enough Latin music. He just can't win.
Ah well, not my circus, not my monkeys.
We never saw the spotted eagle ray, and we tried to find him, so, either we were missing him or he has moved out to sea. Barry is still hanging around, as is Pedro. We even saw a black and white lion fish straight out from the buffet nearer to the reef. Also saw some scorpion fish here and there. The bay in general seemed to be starting to pick up steam as far as new coral growth. There were patches and fields of new growth, even in the bleached out areas. It was so nice to see. As far as sargassum, there was some, but, nothing like years past. I was just glad we could snorkel without it getting tangled up in my hair. Seemed like in front of Lol Ha and HAC there was a deliberate choice to let it accumulate which was smart as you could feel the difference in the sand where the seaweed had kept it from eroding out to sea with the waves. It was much deeper and softer behind the seaweed line. So, somebody knows what they're doing.
That said, it appeared that the Secrets may have been bringing sand in. The normally soft powder along the shore in front of their property was suddenly full of tiny shells when just a day or so before there had been none. It was in very clear piles, as though it had been brought in wheel barrels and dumped. Not sure what the thinking is there but was glad when we crossed the border to ABBWR and the sand was soft again.
The damage to the town of Akumal was so sad to see. I wish things would get worked out and the powers that be would invest in making the area the way it once was.
We finally made it to the Gourmet ala carte and weren't terribly impressed. Well, it may have been what we ordered just didn't go together very well. The foi gras appetizer was amazing, but, we were split on our review of the cold crab soup. I couldn't finish mine, it just wasn't tasting that great. It was good, just not great. Tim on the other hand thought it was amazingly good, so, it might have just been me. By the time the entree came I was wishing I hadn't ordered puree duck canneloni. Way too heavy, and the a/c wasn't pushing like I was wishing it was. Dessert was out of the question, at least for another hour. As usual, it was ice cream and desserts at the buffet later that night.
The buffet really kicked butt. I would only ask that they provide a supply of spoons by the ice cream station. The tables weren't always completely set with teaspoons, and the giant soup spoons were in short supply at the soup station. If you were there when it was busy it could take a while to get one from one of the wait staff, and they don't like you getting them for yourself. We frequently did anyway, followed by a disappointed Lemuel scolding his staff about not noticing that we needed a spoon.
The negatives are far outweighed by the positives, even with respect to the tour operators and the people who are trashing the public beach access area. I'm hoping in time all of that will be just a bad memory and a tope on the road to a better protected and managed bay area. The town as I refer to it is the area on the beach side of the highway. We really haven't spent any time in the puebla, so, have no idea what is going on over there as far as "progress" or changes. I just feel so bad for what we are all losing in the sense of a quaint little place but as in all things once discovered, it is up to all of us to take responsibility for the impact we are having on that delicate ecosystem and still support the hard working locals.
We are planning a trip to Italy next year, so, unless we find a way to swing it, we may not be back to Akumal until 2019. When we do come back, we want to bring our kids again. Hoping they have matured enough to not be bored, and maybe find what we have found in the Italian philosophy of La Dolce Vita when visiting Akumal. They used to love the place, but, they were younger, and that was largely before the reno's when the animacion staff had few children to entertain so the girls were kind of the center of attention. Now that there are so many guests, and occupancy rates are holding steady at a high level, the girls will have to accept that they are no longer going to have the run of the place. Maybe, being a few years older than the last visit will make all the difference.
